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WARNING - These files are for study purposes only! I take absolutely NO responsibility for loss of life or limb, or damage to property, due to the improper use of these files. Anyhow...have at it! TABLE OF CONTENTS Rebel Alliance Megcatline ..................................... 1 Firebombs ..................................................... 1 Napalm ........................................................ 1 Match Head Bomb ............................................... 2 Fuse Ignition Firebomb ........................................ 2 Napalm Made Easy .............................................. 2 Gunpowder ..................................................... 3 Ammonal ....................................................... 3 Chemically Ignited Explosives (Exp 1-5) ....................... 4 Thermite Reaction ............................................. 4 Mercury (II) Fulminate ........................................ 5 Nitrogen Triiodide ............................................ 5 Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) ................................. 5 Acetone Hydrogen Explosive .................................... 6 Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... ........................................ 6 Plastic Explosives ............................................ 7 Creation of Thermite .......................................... 8 How to Make a 'Real' Pipe Bomb ................................ 9 Jug Band Bomb ................................................ 11 TNT (Trinitrotoluene) ........................................ 11 Nitroglycerine ............................................... 13 Dynamite ..................................................... 14 Detonating Dynamite and TNT .................................. 15 Bomb Containers .............................................. 15 Polish Flairs ................................................ 15 Household Chemicals and Their Composition .................... 16 Generating Chlorine Gas ...................................... 16 Chlorine and Turpentine ...................................... 16 Generating Hydrogen Gas ...................................... 16 Hydrogen and Chlorine ........................................ 17 Iodine ....................................................... 17 Grain Elevator Explosion ..................................... 17 Where to Find Chemicals ...................................... 17 Acetone Peroxide Explosive ................................... 18 Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosives ....................... 19 RDX Explosive ................................................ 20 Mini-Compound Detonators ..................................... 21 Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor ............................. 23 Stink Bomb ................................................... 24 Cordite ...................................................... 25 Page 1 REBEL ALLIANCE MEGCATLINE Materials: 79 Cent Bic lighter Needle-nose pliers Tin snips or wire cutters Procedure: First, rip the metal windguard off the lighter with the pliers and then then twist the little flame adjuster all the way to the right, and keep twisting until it won't move up anymore (stop and twist back if it starts hissing). There is a gap between the flame adjust and the plastic push-thing (it moves the nozzle up). You then flatten the wind-guard out and snip a notch in it big enough to fit around the nozzle. What you will do is you will fit the metal piece in the slot between the flame adjust and the plastic or the ring around the nozzle, which ever shows. The metal should be bent down, like the hose on a fire extinguisher. make sure the 'handle' is snug. You should glue carefully. You then hold the lighter backwards from how you would normally hold it, thumb-tab away. You will strike with your index finger. Practice. Depress the handle with your thumb. Strike, and have instant hell-fire! Enjoy! ┌────────────────┐ │ Bombs │ │ │ │ By: Lex Luthor │ └────────────────┘ FIREBOMBS Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. NAPALM About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. Page 2 The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bath tub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler. MATCH HEAD BOMB Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse. A plastic baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV. FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB A four strand home made fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. ┌──────────────────┐ │ Napalm Made Easy │ │ │ │ By Sir Knight │ └──────────────────┘ Napalm is in itself a very simple substance... It can be used for many things (i.e. getting back at your neighbour!!). Here's what you need: Materials: Gasoline Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy) Ammonia pellets Drill Coke can Bendable wire Nail Procedure: First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy, and 1/2 gasoline. Take the Coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture. It should look like this: Page 3 ╒^═^═^═^═^═^═^╕ │ │ │ │ <- Coke can │ │ │XXXXXXXXXXXXX│ │XXXXXXXXXXXXX│ │XXXXXXXXXXXXX│ <-Mixture │XXXXXXXXXXXXX│ └─────────────┘ Now, take the drill (or some sharp object) and put a hole through the ammonia pellet big enough for the nail. Put the nail through the pellet (which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet to drop. WARNING: Do not let that pellet fall into the mixture, as your wife will soon become a widow. ┌─────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES │ └─────────────────────────────────────────┘ By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVES. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS. I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES A) Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a file powder (separately!) with a morter and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released. B) Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the percentage of composition for ammonial, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts. Page 4 C) Chemically Ignited Explosives: Experiment 1: A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. Experiment 2: Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite'. Here it is: Potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (Scarlet = strontium nitrate, Purple = Iodine crystals, Yellow = Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc). Experiment 3: So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it! Mixture: Ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8g Ammonium chloride: 1g Zinc dust: 8g Iodine crystals: 1g Experiment 4: Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured flame in 30 seconds to 1 minute. Works best if the potassium permanganate is finely ground. Experiment 5: Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas used in blow torches). II. THERMITE REACTION The thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous reactions that I talked about to start it! Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer) Page 5 Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main part. To start the reaction place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top of the starter mixture. Step back! The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is an alternative starter for the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine. Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerine. III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES A) Mercury (II) Fulminate To produce mercury (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, one might assume that it could be formed by adding fulminic acid to mercury. This is somewhat difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in VERY small amounts and tell me the results. B) Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. Materials: 2-3g Iodine 15ml Concentrated ammonia 8 Sheets of filter paper 50ml beaker Feather mounted on a two meter pole Ear Plugs Tape Spatula Stirring Rod Procedure: Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5 minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes: Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid). Scrape the brown residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather (wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!). C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) Commonly known as smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly that; it does not give off smoke when it burns. Page 6 Materials: 70ml Concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml Concentrated nitric acid 5g Absorbent cotton 250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker Ice bath Tongs Paper towels Procedure: Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into cakes or blocks or gelatanize it with acetone. This is powerful stuff! D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive: Materials: 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide 4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while standing at least a meter away). E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all the dangerous, you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g Zinc powder 1g Sulfur Powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created. Page 7 ┌─────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE │ └─────────────────────────────────────────┘ Method A: Materials: Gasoline - 1 part Oil - 1 half part Styrofoam - 1 part 1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at ANY time let the mixture get too hot)! NOTE: Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady! 2) Let cool to a thick viscosity. 3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, & gas. 4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this step with extreme caution! 5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit. 6) Mold the mixture how you want (different shapes will make it more or less lethal). Dr. Booms Method: Materials: 20ml gasoline 5-10 plastic bags 10ml oil or starter fluid 50ml beaker or glass bowl gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen Procedure: Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably work just as well or better than plastic bags!) and add oil. Add bags again until very thick. Add the guncotton and mix well. Keep on adding strips of plastic until no more will dissolve and then pour in a mold. NOTE: It would a good idea to heat this stuff with a double boiler. Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with gunpowder, 2 M-80's or any other type of explosive to make it the equivalent of a Molotov cocktail, but be warned: The fragments (nuts, bolts, etc.) are deadly. They will penetrate a brick wall when the mixture is detonated. Page 8 Detonation: 1) The mixture can be thrown, but sometimes detonation does not occur. 2) The mixture can be wired for an electric charge to be sent through it. It will detonate without doubt. A regular fuse can be sent through it also. If this method is used, some sort of timer is recommended. ┌───────────────────────┐ │ CREATION OF THERMITE! │ └───────────────────────┘ By Grey Wolf Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open a fortress fone. How here's how you make it. It is very simple. The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In laymans's terms, Hemetite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water of just fish it out will a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest), but aluminum filings at your local hardware shop (if you buy the bar, use no less than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin). That's almost it! Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's thermite! Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the thermite (either steal it from a chem lab or buy it at your local hardware store). If not, order from a chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap). The ribbon should stick into the thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch (don't worry, the torch isn't hot enough to light the thermite). When the burning magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light. When the thermite burns, get the hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on human flesh! Page 9 ┌───────────────────────────┐ │ HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL' │ │ [> PIPE BOMB <] │ └───────────────────────────┘ By Shootz Bootz This file was written for INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, and NOT for illegal use. The writer cannot be held responsible for anything you do to yourself!!!! If there are any spelling or grammatical errors, then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care... my point is driven across. Well first of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you must first have a pipe. It doesn't matter how big, or how small, you could use a 1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage pipe. Once you have this, you will need a few ingredients first. These ingredients make a substance called 'flash powder'. This can be a lot of fun if you make a pile of it about 1/4 lbs. and have your friend light it with a match (some friend). Well, here's what you need: 1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store) 2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place) 3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections) 4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!) 5> Some kind of piping 6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue 7> Small drill bit and drill 8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex) 9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..) The magnesium has to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get them in the camping sections of Caldor, and Sears. They look like a block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00 butthey go a long way!). Now that you have the stuff, start the work. Find a drill bit about the size of a pencil point, and drill a small hole about dead center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of the pipe, don't drill both sides. Now you should have a piece of pipe, with a small hole drilled into it. After this, take some hot glue (hot glue gun or such). Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue) and stuff it into one end of the pipe, so it plugs up the hole, and is about 2cm into the pipe. Now fill that end with melted glue over the paper, so its about even with the pipe, and sit that down on another piece of paper. Now you should have a pipe with a small hole in the center, and one end with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces of paper on either side of the glue. So far so good... now for the flash powder. Pour in the potassium chlorate (largest amount). Then pour in the charcoal (a little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff into a grinding plate, not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the block and ground up finally, make this a bit less than the charcoal amount. Lastly add the sulphur, only a little though, about half as much as the magnesium you just put in. Now grind all the ingredients together until they look like 1 grey dust. Try a little bit (no not the whole damn thing! save that for the fun later!). Light it and see how fast it goes off. Your gonna have to fiddle with it until it turns out the Page 10 fastest (sounds like something else eh?). Now that you have the flash powder ready, stick a piece of tape over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out). Put the pipe over a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe. One the pipe seems full, place a piece of paper over the opening in that end, and pack that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe. Take the paper out, and pour more powder in. Keep doing his until its very well packed, and its almost full! Make sure that the flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled! Now put a piece of paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!). After that, pour in your final glue in the end you just packed, make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the paper! Stick another piece of paper over that end (just glued) and let it dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat! While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie it down flat on the table, over a piece of cardboard or something if its a good table!! Now mix some water with the flash powder (about 1/2-1/2 mix). No it won't kill the powder. Now shake up the bottle, and spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let it dry, and repeat the sequence. After about 4 shots on 1 side, repeat on the other side (flip the tissue paper). Continue this until your liking. When this is done, and the tissue paper is dry, tear/cut off a small sheet, roll it, and light it. If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it. If you like to, before rolling it, pour in some flash powder (not too much!!!) and roll it like a joint. Then twist it. You now have a fuse (really?!?!). Make sure its long!! Now for the final assembly. Take the tape off the small hole you drilled, and poke thru the powder with a pencil point/ice pick or whatever (or the drill bit!). If you REALLY want to, then put a drop of glue to hold the fuse in better, but you don't have to!! (not too much!). Now make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or so until its rock hard (no ideas!). You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB. Great for parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything else you want to do. When you light this bomb, point the end in the direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your crazy, and in that case, I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in your face!! If you really want to fancy it up, you can always use threaded steel end caps!!!!!! Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making! Be safe (hehehe) Page 11 ╒═════════════════════════════════════╕ │ THE JUG BAND BOMB │ │ BY: THE GRAY MOUSER │ ╘═════════════════════════════════════╛ This one is short and sweet: 1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top. 3) Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and evaporates. 4) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy from a snake-bite kit). 5) The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling it against a solid object. When this sucker goes off, it is the same as half stick of dynamite. ┌─────────────────────────────────────┐ │ HOW TO MAKE TNT │ └─────────────────────────────────────┘ Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high ex- plosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic power, about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and their great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dry cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are other methods. Preparation of TNT: 1 - Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume). 2 - Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3 - Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4 - Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5 - Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. Page 12 6 - After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 degrees C. When reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7 - Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained for a full half hour. 8 - At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottom. 9 - Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accomplished slowly and gently. 10 - Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours. 11 - After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C and held there for a half hour. 12 - After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water. 13 - After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14 - When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT. NOTE: The temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use approximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. Page 13 ┌────────────────────────────────┐ │ NITROGLYCERIN │ └────────────────────────────────┘ by Dr. Boom WARNING: This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it! Materials: Glass bowl and glass rod Water (lots of it) Sulfuric acid Nitric Acid Glycerin Refrigerator Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod. The Sulfuric acid and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and you can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown bar of soap from a health food store (i.e. - Cardish). Procedure: Carefully mix equal amounts of the acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts water to 3 parts of the mixture of acid. Put mixture and bar of glycerine soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze the damn thing!) and leave it for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp- erature (5 C) will prevent detonation (and we don't want THAT to happen, or at least not NOW). Shred the soap to a flaky powder and dissolve it in the acid solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!). Leave it in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after 5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is quite lethal), and some liquid acid left. Skim off the excess acid to leave only the thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to it (don't drown it or you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge until you need it - never keep it out of the fridge too long (and make sure it's not eaten for dinner). It can be detonated by dropping it, throwing it, shaking it, by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer). You might want to soak it in sawdust or something similar so it won't blow up as easily if you happen to accidentally bump it or something. Page 14 ┌─────────────────────────────┐ │ DYNAMITE │ └─────────────────────────────┘ by Dr. Boom DANGER: Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest that if you actually attempt to make this - make it in very low quantities so you don't blow the roof off your house. Also use extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone! Materials: thermometer glass bowls stirring rods nitroglycerin newspaper or Kieselguhr sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives cotton and cardboard detonator (see below) Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a porous silica substance) but the book says that newspaper works just as well. With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it is more like paper mache. Procedure: First soak strips of newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then mush it in your hands (isn't this fun?!?) until it becomes more like a paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up). Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times! Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1). Mix well. Almost done! Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part nitroglycerine and 1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer to make sure everything is below 15 C. Now make a cardboard tube 3 inches long with a radius of 1cm. Put cotton in one end as a plug and pour in the dynamite until it is 2/3 full (2" down the tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake! When it's dry, fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder, guncotton or plastic explosives and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire a L O N G distance away to a power source. You can also use a timer, but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing! Be careful with this stuff unless you want to join AstroBoy - the pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch. Page 15 DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE by Dr. Boom Even though TNT and Dynamite are powerful explosives, to set them off you need a smaller explosion or a charge. For the shock needed to set them off, plastic explosives can be used. It's easy to make and quite powerful. Let's say you use TNT: There's the two basic ways to do it. If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it half way with TNT and fill the other half with plastic explosives. Since your using small amounts of TNT, you can use a LONG fuse (at least 1 foot) of magnesium ribbon as a fuse, but never put it under a car or it'll blow it up (yes, it's still pretty damn powerful). If you're a little nuts and decide to make a large charge, I would recomment using an electronic detonator or timer. Well, I hope you enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the CN tower, bring a little ball of Dynamite or TNT and rop it and 30 seconds later, enjoy the fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it. A penny will penetrate 1 food into concrete!). BOMB CONTAINERS by Dr. Boom Drill a hole in a ping pong ball and fill it up with plastic explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do this: Take your ping pong ball bomb and put a magnesium ribbon fuse (1 foot long) in the ball (you can add BB pellets) and light it at midnight and throw it down! The foot long fuse should should give it 30 seconds to Dr. Boom Doom Time. I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood! Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an ashtray with the sand in it. Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic explosives. Too bad you can't see the face of the person who tried to put out his cigarette! I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away! Try thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your favourite explosive. POLISH FLAIRS Materials: Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) Sucrose (sugar) Napkin Procedure: Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it. It will flare up and smoke. NOTE: Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous! Page 16 I. LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION Household Product Chemical Compounds ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── Vinegar 3-5% Acetic Acid Baking Soda Sodium Bicarbonate Drain Cleaners Sodium Hydroxide Sani-Flush 75% Sodium Bisulfate Ammonia Water Ammonium Hydroxide Table Salt Sodium Chloride Sugar Sucrose Malk of Magnesia Magnesium Hydroxide Tincture of Iodine 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine Rubbing Alcohol 70%-99% Isopropyl Alcohol II. WIMPY, BUT PRETTY SAFE EXPERIMENTS <phew> Experiment 1: Generating Chlorine Gas Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say "Do not mix with chlorine bleach" and vice versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or Ammonia (DON'T). For something fun do with chlorine, stay tuned. Experiment 2: Chlorine and Turpentine Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off alot of black smoke and probably start burning. Experiment 3: Generating Hydrogen Gas To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air. Light a small amount and it burns with a small POP. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves separating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen Page 17 while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide). Therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. Experiment 4: Hydrogen and Chlorine Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube," and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possible explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is produced to cause them to react. Experiment 5: Iodine Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcogol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the ticture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. You can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide (discussion further up in this document). Experiment 6: Grain-Elevator Explosion Want to try your own "grain-elevator explosion?" Get a candle and some flour. Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting the flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The enormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do at about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators, much the same thing happens. If you can get your hands on some Lycopodium powder, do. This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected. ┌───────────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ Where Can I Find Some Of Those Chemicals? │ └───────────────────────────────────────────────┘ Most of the chemicals listed can most likely be found at the following places, your school, or under "Chemicals" in the Yellow Pages: Company Address City Phone ## ───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── Chemglobe Corporation 300 March Road Kanata 592-2541 Diversey Wyandotte Incorporated 124 O'Connor Ottawa 235-5095 Hercules Canada Incorporated 3450 Wyman Crescent Ottawa 526-1816 Ottawa Chemists Clinic Pharmacy 192 Laurier Ave. West Ottawa 235-3993 Terry Chemicals Bay 5-19 Grenfell Crescent Nepean 226-1979 Page 18 ┌───────────────────────────────────┐ │ Acetone Peroxide Explosive │ └───────────────────────────────────┘ Jack the Ripper This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a detonator. I will go into this one very detailed and all my following articles will be the same. Materials: Hydrogen Peroxide (hair bleach, drug stores and hair supply stores) Acetone (hardware Stores and drug stores) Sulfuric Acid (clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear) Eye Dropper or Syringe w/glass tube Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C) Glass Containers Large Pan Ice and Salt Water Paper Towels All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your own purposes. Procedure: 1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly. 2) Cool it by placing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celsius. 3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees Celsius. If the temperature rises don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then start adding it again. 4) Now that you have all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for another 5 minutes. 5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath. 6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours. 7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar w/a rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water over them, letting the water rinse the crystals & filter down through the paper towel into the jar. 8) Select a container and allow them to dry. Page 19 Uses: Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonator that I have ever encountered. Works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effect it should be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that matter. ┌───────────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive │ └───────────────────────────────────────────────┘ Jack The Ripper This one is a killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4. However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonator. Namely Acetone Peroxide detonators can be used here or Mini-Compound Detonators. Materials: Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than - Farm and Feed Stores 32% Nitrogen) or pure Anhydrous Hydrazine - Chemical Supply House (Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!) Large Mixing Container GLASS stirring rod Storage Container w/tight lid Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator Procedure: NOTE: mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the reaction is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the volume of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of ammonia gas are released when these two are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing. 1) Pour into the container the an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required. 2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly), & then add more. 3) Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount of ammonium nitrate left over. 4) Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than any military explosive. Page 20 5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 mesh or finer) Uses: This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties, and can be poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine. This type of land mine is totally disguised and cannot be noticed, and all you need to do is bury a compound detonator in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc. This type of land mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of rain etc... It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb. ┌────────────────────────────┐ │ RDX Explosive │ └────────────────────────────┘ Jack The Ripper The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to make RDX was so shabby and lame it was probably written by an eight year old mental patient. So here is mine easy! Straightforward! Comprehendible! Materials: Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine, & Methenamine) Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware stores) Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores) Scale with gram accuracy Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups Thermometer 20-100 degrees Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit Several large quart canning jars Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal Paper Towels Procedure: 1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin of cold water. 2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the temperature between your basins of hot and cold water. 3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamin. Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute time period. All the while maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30 degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins. 4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55 degrees Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then maintain this temperature for about ten minutes. Page 21 5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius (68 F). Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and white salt will appear. 6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another jar. 7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of fresh cold water & a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid. Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again. 8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone & heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone. 9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again into it's salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another jar & rinse it with cold water the same way you did before. Now you have the finished product roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX. 10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in ajar with an air tight lid for future use. Seeing that RDX does not lose it's effectiveness for months. Uses: RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes to make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for making detonators in which RDX will be used along with other explosives before mentioned. RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as an explosive by itself. It is also commonly referred to as Clyclonite. ┌───────────────────────────────┐ │ Mini-Compound Detonator │ └───────────────────────────────┘ Jack The Ripper This is basically a tutorial in making detonators, and there are a few rules, that I would like each & every one of you to follow. Making detonators is very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonators is for them to be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the detonators I am telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on a larger scale. Page 22 Materials: Name Source ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or hard- tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These ware stores tubes must also be closed at one end. A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX PETN is the center (amount depends on how many detonators you intend to filling of detonating made) PETN can be substituted here. cords. A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black powder. A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores also please be safe considering a few of these detonators may detonate when being compressed, so take the neccessary precautions such as safety glasses etc...) Procedure: NOTE: dirt or oil may sensitive the detonators to an unsafe level so when handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your shower on hot and leave it on! 1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell casing before use. Then let the wax cool down. 2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then GENTLY and SLOWLY insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully. 3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch shell casing. 4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high. 5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use. Page 23 Diagram: - +++++ | |@@@@| | |****| | |****| | |####| 1 Inch ------< |####| | |####| | |####| | |####| | |----| - |====| @ - Black Powder (Ignition Charge) * - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge) # - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge) - - Two drops of wax on Bottom + - Tape covering top = - The bottom of shell casing | - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell Uses: These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use is for miniature hand grenades and other small explosives. ┌──────────────────────────────────────────┐ │ Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor │ └──────────────────────────────────────────┘ Jack The Ripper This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by either concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a time delay, which I will detail later. Materials: Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses) (Granulated) Sugar (grocery store) Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon, etc...) Storage Container w/tight fitting lid Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid 2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can be held in the hand) Procedure: 1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the large board and rub with the other flat board or a rolling pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar. Page 24 2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container. Now recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it has a uniform color and consistency. 3) Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake it up before use to re-mix any settled particles. Uses: Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule and bury the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. Depending on how many gelatin capsules you use & their size depends on the delay. It can range from 20 minutes to and hour or more. This type of ignitor reaches a temperature of 3,200 degrees Fahrenheit and can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be compacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb. STINK BOMB by Dr. Boom If you want more life in your party (or break it up), you have to try this. Materials: Aerosol can of whipcream Plastic bags, styrofoam... Magnesium ribbon 5ml gas Matches Procedure(s): Part 1 Buy a can of whipcream (the kind in the aerosol can) and leave it under your bed for a week for it to spoil. Press the nozzle for 5 seconds, it can avacuate a whole room from the stench (think what 10 seconds can do)! Part 2 Take 5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc) until it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it won't run. Take the cap off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium ribbon. Leave 1 foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around the nozzle and light the fuse and run. Watch the fireworks and asked who squeezed the cheese!). Page 25 CORDITE by Dr. Boom Materials: Guncotton Nitroglycerine Acetone Petroleum jelly Procedure: Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix it with nitroglycerine, petroleum jelly and a little acetone and let it dry and then you have cordite! You can use it by itself or with other charges. TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction Warning ........................................... 1 Chapter 1 - Low Explosives Blackpowder ....................................... 2 Other Types of Blackpowder ........................ 3 Zinc Explosive .................................... 4 Water Fire Starter ................................ 4 Explosive Misxtures ............................... 4 Chapter 2 - High Explosives Astrolite ......................................... 6 Astrolite A/A-1-5 ................................. 7 Sodium Chlorate Explosives ........................ 7 Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ......................... 7 Rocket Fuel ....................................... 7 Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ................ 7 Incendiary Mixture ................................ 7 Impact Mixture .................................... 8 Filler Explosive .................................. 8 Nitromethane Explosives ........................... 8 Nitromethane 'solid' Explosives ................... 8 Picric Acid ....................................... 8 Tetryl ............................................ 9 Plastic Explosives from Bleach .................... 9 R.D.X. ............................................ 10 Composition 'C' ................................... 12 Composition C-2 and C-3 ........................... 12 Gelatin Dynamite .................................. 14 Peroxyacetone ..................................... 14 Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) ..................... 15 Nitrogen Triiodide ................................ 15 Nitroglycerine .................................... 15 Making Sulfuric Acid .............................. 16 T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene) .......................... 16 Mercury Fulminate ................................. 16 Chapter 3 - Incendiaries Napalm ............................................ 17 Thermite .......................................... 17 Chemically Ignited Explosives ..................... 17 Chapter 4 - Smoke Bombs Smoke Producer .................................... 18 Smoke Bomb ........................................ 18 HTH Chlorine Bomb ................................. 18 Smoke Mixtures .................................... 19 Chlorine and Turpentine ........................... 21 Chapter 5 - Bombs Generic Bomb ...................................... 22 Firebombs ......................................... 22 Pipe Bomb ......................................... 22 Contact Grenade ................................... 23 Carbide Bomb ...................................... 24 Hindenberg Bomb ................................... 24 Page 1 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- INTRODUCTION --------------------------------------------------------------------------- The trouble with chemical books these days, is that they never explain in detail how to make something that you want. Sure, they tell you how the Chinese did it in 1500 or ten centuries ago. But now days, that does not help. Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information on HOW-TO-DO it. It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "BOOM". An interesting point to remember that it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. Another, but harder place, to get chemicals is a chemical supply house. These places can be dangerous to your explosive career because some supply houses were told to report people who buy chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The reason: those chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene (TNT). WARNING: -------- The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this text are dangerous, even for an experienced chemist. Also, the construc- tion or possession of many of these devices would be in violation of many federal, state, and local laws. The author or authors are not responsible for what damages or trouble that the missuse of the information that is stated herein. Therefore you are responsible for all of your actions that you make. Intended for information purposes only. So, As you can tell this text is not meant to be read by the total IDIOT! Before you attempt at making any of the devices I would suggest that you have some knowledge about chemistry. Remember: SAFTEY FIRST!!! Page 2 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living daylight out of some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this chapter I will explain the making of many different types of low explosives. BLACKPOWDER ----------- You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda. It is also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate make a slightly more powerful black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight container. You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda, it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate 2 parts powdered charcoal 1 part sulfur This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Get it totally dry. Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a mortar and pestle. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive to sparks. If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. Page 3 OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER -------------------------- Below are eleven black/gun powder formulas. They are more powerful than the ordinary potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or advantage) is that it is very sensitive to sparks and some leave a corrosive residue. A word of caution: when you decide to make these compounds be careful for some of them might decide to go up just because they want to. [All chemicals are measured by volume] 1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2% Sulfur 15.4% Charcoal 15.4% 2: Potassium nitrate 70.4% Sulfur 19.4% Sodium sulfate 10.2% 3: Potassium nitrate 64.0% sulfur 12.0% sawdust 17.0% charcoal 7.0% 4: Potassium nitrate 50.0% Ammonium perchlorate 25.0% Sulfur 12.5% charcoal 12.5% 5: Barium nitrate 75.0% Charcoal 12.5% Sulfur 12.5% 6: Sodium peroxide 67.0% Sodium thiosulphate 33.0% 7: Potassium chlorate 75.0% Sulfur 12.5% Charcoal 12.5% 8: Potassium nitrate 79.0% straw charcoal 12.0% sulfur 12.0% 9: Potassium nitrate 70.6% Sulfur 23.5% Antimony sulfate 5.9% Page 4 10: Potassium nitrate 37.5% Starch 37.5% Sulfur 18.75% Antimony powder 6.25% 11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0% Potassium nitrate 40.0% Charcoal 11.0% The above chemical ratios are percentages. When making the stuff, be sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you possibly can. The finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode. ZINC EXPLOSIVE -------------- To make a big flash of flames almost instantly try mixing: 1 part Zinc dust 1 part Sulfur When these two mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly! Be careful for it does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that it is around if not expecting it. This is not a powerful explosive but it is violent even when not confined, so be careful. WATER FIRE STARTER ------------------ So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust : 8 grams Iodine crystals : 1 gram EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES ------------------ Following is a list of chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained. You will also find the chemical symbol of another chemical which explodes on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the ever so useful pipe bomb. Just for the people that don't know: Page 5 CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Acetic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Acetic anhydride H2SO4 HNO3 Acrolein H2SO4 HNO3 Allyl alcohol H2SO4 HNO3 Allyl chloride H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline acetate H2SO4 HNO3 Aniline hydrochloride H2SO4 HNO3 Benzoyl peroxide H2SO4 HNO3 Cyanic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Chlorosulfonic acid H2SO4 HNO3 Dimethyl keytone H2SO4 HNO3 Epichlorohydrin H2SO4 HNO3 Ethylene diamine H2SO4 HNO3 Ethylene imine H2SO4 HNO3 Hydrogen peroxide H2SO4 HNO3 Isoprene H2SO4 HNO3 Mesityl oxide H2SO4 HNO3 Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4 Carbon disulfide H2SO4 Cresol H2SO4 Cumene H2SO4 Diisobutylene H2SO4 Ethylene cyanohydrin H2SO4 Ethylene glycol H2SO4 Hydrofluoric acid H2SO4 Cyanide of sodium HNO3 Cyclohexanol HNO3 Cyclohexanone HNO3 Ethyl alcohol HNO3 Hydrazine HNO3 Hydriodic acid HNO3 Isopropyl ether HNO3 Manganese HNO3 H2SO4 - Sulfuric Acid HNO3 - Nitric Acid Page 6 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about trying any of these, that you have some background knowledge on explosive or chemistry. These explosives range from sound sensitive to water sensitive or electrically ignited. It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed her e you will have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the chemical houses have been told to notify the police if a certain combination of chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the information about that person ordering to the police. And it is possible that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using, selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard penalty can rise. Even for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true! ASTROLITE --------- The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?... Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G... Feel free to use different ratios. Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Page 7 ASTROLITE A/A-1-5 ----------------- Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES -------------------------- Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER ------------------------- 65% sodium chlorate 22% charcoal 13% sulphur and sprinkle some graphite on top. ROCKET FUEL ----------- 6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance) ---------------------------------- 50% sodium chlorate 35% rubber cement 10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulphur You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. INCENDIARY MIXTURE ------------------ 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulphur Page 8 IMPACT MIXTURE -------------- 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. FILLER EXPLOSIVE ---------------- 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES ----------------------- Nitromethane (CH3NO2) Specific gravity: 1.139 Flash point : 95f Auto-ignite : 785f Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: 1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. NITROMETHANE 'SOLID' EXPLOSIVES ------------------------------- 2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) Soak for 3-5 min. when done, store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance. PICRIC ACID ----------- Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a steady temperature of 95 degrees Celsius for four to six hours depending on the quantities of phenol used. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted Page 9 with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly but more importantly the temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees Celsius. Ten or so minutes after the addition of nitric acid the picric acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid is present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the pircic acid should be allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is more expensive to make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled water form as pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon formation. TETRYL ------ A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount of concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well stirred. After about five minutes, the tetrylis filtered and then washed in cold water. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acids, filter it from the water and allowed to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT. PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH ----------------------------- This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures in the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. Page 10 To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove , etc., a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple beam balance (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This p rocess of purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. RDX --- THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS. Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in their chronological progression as they were developed and standardized by the armed forces. All these explosives are cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is Page 11 manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars fo r camp stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when Page 12 pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second! COMPOSITION 'C' --------------- All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care. This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds because of its relative ease of manufacture and the easy aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition: R.D.X.......................... 88.3% Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1% Lecithin....................... 00.6% (all percentages are by weight) In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic (except when ingested). It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.D.X. and allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated temparatures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity of 7900/MPS. COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3 ----------------------- These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds. Page 13 It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this part was written for imformatative purposes only. Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'. It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows: R.D.X................... 80% Mononitrotolulene....... 5% Dinitrotolulene......... 5% T.N.T. guncotton........ 5% Dimethylformide......... 5% (see below for rest of recipe) 'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was standardized and adopted by the military as following composition: R.D.X................ 77% Mononitrotolulene.... 16% Dinitrotolulene...... 5% Tetryl............... 1% T.N.T. guncotton..... 1% 'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 degrees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's explosive properties. 'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the explosives detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an application. When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. Page 14 It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is approximately 7700 MPS. GELATIN DYNAMITE ---------------- Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive. Dynamite. 1) Nitro........................ 12% Guncotten.................... .5% Amonium nitrate.............. 87.5% 2) Nitro........................ 88% Potassium nitrate............ 5% Tetryl....................... 7% 3) Nitro........................ 24% Guncotten.................... 1% Amonium nitrate.............. 75% 4) Nitro........................ 75% Guncotten.................... 5% Potassium nitrate............ 15% Wood meal.................... 5% 5) Nitro........................ 80% Ethalyne glycol dinitrate.... 20% After making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end. But be careful for it might be a little unstable because of the nitroglycerine (nitro). Before it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it! Which in a way it does. PEROXYACETONE ------------- Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive. Materials: 4ml of Acetone 4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 of drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at LEAST a meter away). Page 15 CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON) ----------------------------- Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it does not give off smoke when it burns. Materials: 70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml of concentrated nitric acid 5g of absorbent cotton 250ml of sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ------------------ This is very shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved, dropped, touched, breathed on... etc. For one thing I hope you don't do any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can move a lot of mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to make this, and this is the best one. I think. Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid remaining. Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide, which is very sensitive to touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you want to use it. To detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till omething agitates it. Remember too much can harm a lot of things. It does pack a wallop! NITROGLYCERIN ------------- Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you have to do: By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the other way round for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25 degrees Page 16 centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be dumped into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids together and can easily be lost control of. MAKING SULFURIC ACID -------------------- No, your not really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more concentrated. All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove. Do not use metal for unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and boil it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off the heat and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an electric hot plate & make it outside because the fumes are very poisonous. T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene) -------------------------- Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of: 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitro- toluene and mix with 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes. The dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the trini- trotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene. MERCURY FUMLMINATE ------------------ Mix 2 parts of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part mercury. This is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation. Page 17 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER THREE [INCENDIARIES] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- What is an incendiary? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but can burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an incendiary, because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and can even melt metal. NAPALM ------ This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn for long periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can't even put it out. What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to the gas until you can not feed any more at all. At points it will look like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute and let the other gas rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you want. When it is done, it will burn for a long time. I would suggest that you do not place any on you because once it is lit it will travel quite quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline and it rolls down. This is also fun to play with. The only problem with it is it gives off too much smoke (which, I may add - is poison). THERMITE -------- This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although it is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is what you do: Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered alumnium with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but once you get it going don't plan on putting it out, because it can produce enough heat to melt through a steel plate. The finer the ingredients are the easier it will be to ignite. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES ----------------------------- A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. Page 18 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many different types of smoke can be made. Even colored smoke. SMOKE PRODUCER -------------- The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created. SMOKE BOMB ---------- This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix: 2 part Potassium Nitrate 1 Part Granulated sugar. Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard, just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and wait till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the stuff turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of the compound. You also can light it without melting it but it burns too fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does not. HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB ----------------------- Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two together in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you mix the two together they will begin to sizzle and then it will begin to smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it does begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If you do not be careful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I suggest to place the mixture in a glass container for it gets real hot. And anybody in their right mind will not go pick it up and try to throw it when it has done smoking. The smoke is known to last for over 2 minutes and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly! Page 19 SMOKE MIXTURES -------------- [Black] Hexachloroethane......... 60% Anthracene............... 20% Magnesium (powder)....... 20% [Brown] Pitch.................... 29.2% Potasium Nitrate......... 47.4% Borax.................... 10.6% Calcium Carbonate......... 4.9% Sand...................... 4.0% Sulfur.................... 3.9% [Grey] Hexachloroethane......... 50% Zinc Powder.............. 25% Zinc Oxide............... 10% Potassium Nitrate........ 10% Colophony Resin........... 5% [Grey] Hexachloroethane......... 45.5% Zinc Oxide............... 45.5% Calcium Silicide.......... 9.0% [White] Potassium Chlorate....... 20% Ammonium Chloride........ 50% Naphthalene.............. 20% Charcoal................. 10% [White] Potassium nitrate........ 48.5% Sulfur................... 48.5% Realgar................... 3.0% [White] Potassium Nitrate........ 50% Sugar.................... 50% [Yellow] Potassium Nitrate........ 25% Sulfur................... 16% Realgar.................. 59% Page 20 [White] Potassium nitrate......... 6% Antimony sulfide.......... 1% Powdered sulfur........... 1% [Yellow] Potassium nitrate......... 4% Powdered sulfur........... 1% Charcoal.................. 2% Sodium chloride........... 3% [Yellow] Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate........ 24% Sodium carbonate.......... 6% [Red] Strontium nitrate......... 4% Powdered orange shellac... 1% [Red] Strontium nitrate........ 11% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Calcium carbonate........ 11% Potassium nitrate......... 1% [Purple] Copper sulfate............ 1% Strontium nitrate......... 1% Powdered sulfur........... 1% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate......... 3% [Green] Barium nitrate............ 7% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Charcoal.................. 1% Potassium nitrate......... 1% [Green] Barium chlorate........... 9% Powdered orange shellac... 1% [Blue] Anitmony sulfide.......... 2% Powdered sulfur........... 4% Potassium nitrate........ 12% Page 21 [Blue] Potassium nitrate........ 12% Powdered sulfur........... 3% charcoal.................. 1% Copper sulfate............ 2% Powdered rosin............ 1% CHLORINE & TURPENTINE --------------------- Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning... Page 22 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it should be well excercised and you had better know what you are doing before you even attempt to construct some of these devices. Remember that the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be breaking the law in some places. If you do make on of the devices that is listed in here then I would suggest you make a prototype and set that one off in the country and if it worked correctly then make your final one and use it the way you had in mind. GENERIC BOMB ------------ Aquire a glass container. Put in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top and turn the container around to coat the inner surface. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just throw against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of dynamite! FIREBOMBS --------- Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in the mouth. The original firebomb was one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one part roofing tar or one part melting wax to 2 parts gasoline. PIPE BOMB --------- A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very dangerous! To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end of the pipe very good with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end about little over the middle. Cap the pipe on the other end and make a small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in electric tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out. To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then connect the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to the electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!! Remember take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the electrodes and run it far away and then connect the battery to it. If you made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery! Remember, this can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage. Page 23 CONTACT GRENADE --------------- Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe PVC (for test and fun) Steel (for shrapnel) 12 guage shotgun shell (fitted to pipe) marble ping pong ball cap for pipe 2-3 ft. ribbon (flights) explosive charge (of personal preferance) a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have. This design is a modified pipebomb which will be set off upon hard contact. This makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact. 1) Cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside. 2) Carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely. 3) Glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer. 4) Cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to make a simple form of casing. 5) Put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only 1/4 of the volume of pipe. Reason: 1 gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks dynamite!!!). 6) Cap the pipe and epoxy into place. 7) Tie ribbon around tail section of pipe. Relax. Now that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the grenade will come down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer then ignites the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used for testing as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a toy and should not be built to be played with. If you want a toy just empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the primer and throw. It makes a quasi-safe firework. Page 24 CARBIDE BOMB ------------ Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in curring torches. Eventually the glass will explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball. HINDENBERG BOMB --------------- Get, a balloon, bottle, Liquid Plummer, foil, and a length of fuse. Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the Liquid plummer and add a little piece of alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Tape the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon and light. Let the balloon rise into the air. When the fuse gets to the balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball.